A Week Aboard S/V Sabado: 7/14/2024 – 7/21/2024

Good morning! Did you see our latest YouTube video? Watch it here!

We spent last Sunday recovering from our Saturday night anchor-dragging drama. We took naps, iced our aches, and discussed the could have/would have/should have scenarios regarding the ever-changing and often unpredictable weather here in the Tuamotus. With no natural protection aside from clusters of palm trees, all you can do is be prepared to jump into action. 

Monday morning, we ventured to shore in search of nutrients. We’d been out of fresh fruit and vegetables for a few days and were eager to restock when we saw the supply ship come in. We beached the dinghy and walked to the local store. 

It was bigger than we anticipated, with a pretty good selection of shelf-stable products from soap and toothpaste to rice and cake mix- although most were 3X the price we’d have paid in Panama and were covered in a thin layer of dust. Thankfully, our hygiene, dried, and canned goods stash was still plentiful. We made our way over to the line of freezers and produce baskets against the back wall and began digging. We purchased a couple of bags of chips, some frozen meat, and at least one of every fruit/vegetable they had (cabbage, carrots, tomatoes, apples, and bok choy, to name a few). We winced as the cashier read us our total- grocery prices are high here! We spent the rest of the day at home, washing and putting away our produce and researching the best place for our upcoming refit. When it comes to making significant changes to Sabado, we’ve learned that location can make or break you, so we’re searching for a sweet spot- somewhere we can source quality supplies and affordable labor. We still have over a year to go, but the planning starts now to ensure we’re in the right part of the world when the time comes. If you have any experience with boat work in Australia versus New Zealand, we’d love to hear about it! 

Tuesday was my birthday! Ray usually makes me an omelet on my birthday (he makes the best omelets, but I think the secret is half a stick of butter). Unfortunately, eggs are few and far between here, so instead, he squeezed me a glass of fresh orange juice and toasted up some homemade sourdough bread. We went snorkeling shortly after, but the smoke from the locals burning trash on the beach and the loud industrial noises of who knows what ashore killed my zen. 

We’ve become accustomed to life without a building in sight. It was surprising how easily we became irritated while anchored near this small village—we’ll need to get a grip before we sail to Tahiti! We pulled up our anchor and motored ~15 miles away to an empty anchorage with a pristine, quiet beach and clean air. We dove our anchor and then enjoyed a glass of champagne on the bow at sunset.

Thank you to everyone who sent well wishes for my birthday- I felt the love! I am the luckiest woman in the world. ❤️ 

We spent Wednesday relaxing at home and weighing our options for an upcoming storm in the forecast. After getting surprised by 6ft waves in our last anchorage, we debated moving behind a nearby reef in hopes of some protection from the inevitable fetch. There was one other boat behind the reef, but there was plenty of room if we wanted to move. We took the dinghy out to judge the obstacles around us. We marked a few bommies outside our swing radius but ultimately decided we liked our spot. We were doubtful the reef would make a difference in the sea state anyway. We triple-checked our scope calculations this time, too. 

Thursday was the calm before the storm, so we packed our cooler and went to shore. We checked out the rainwater catchment system that sat amongst the palm trees on the otherwise empty motu. Since we’d arrived, we had seen a few local boats stop by to visit it. 

We picked a shady spot to eat lunch while we listened to the waves lapping against the beach. It was picture-perfect! Cruising here is not without challenges, but the seclusion and undeniable beauty are incredibly rewarding. 

We made it home before sunset, and the wind began to pick up. We watched TV and went to bed early, only to be woken up before sunrise to 30kn winds and bouncy seas. The fetch began to kick up sand, making the shallows a milky white color as the sunlight peeked through the clouds. 

We spent the day hiding from the rain and examining our position. Sabado was holding her ground. We ran the generator, made some water, and roasted a chicken for dinner. As we were getting ready to do the dishes, we noticed we weren’t pointing where we should be given the wind direction and where our anchor was. It looked like we were caught in a weird current or our chain was wrapped around something on the ocean floor… 

Of course, these things only happen in the dark! Ray went outside with a headlamp to see if he could tell whether or not it was current-related. It didn’t appear to be. The tension could break our chain if the wind and sea state continue to build. So, we decided to pull up a portion of our chain and reposition our floats. The bottom here is predominantly sand, and we were not near any bommies, but there were a few small rocks/short coral clusters around that we might’ve caught as we swung. Sabado pulled back into position as I leaned over to remove the bridle. The problem had resolved itself. We let the bridle back out and observed for a while. Ultimately, I think we need another float or two, but for now, we must make do with what we have. When this storm blows over, we’ll search the shoreline for more. The rigid floats we’ve been using are from the French Polynesian pearl farms, and you can usually find some washed up on the beach. We have 3, but if we had more, we could place them closer together, keeping the chain higher off the ground. Every anchorage here has new challenges- we are still learning! 

The wind continued through yesterday and into this morning. It’s chilly, but the sun is out! 

We’ll stay put until conditions calm down, then we’ll figure out our next move. I hope you had a great week. ❤️